1916 Commemoration Dress Tutorial
Pattern used: Simplicity 3723 dress A.
Cut out all relevant pieces.
Step 2: (Bodice)
Work on bodice. Apply the darts. I used the line on the fold as my centre point to pin trimmings. First I pinned two strips of lace either side of the fold. Ensure you leave a piece at the top and a piece at the bottom to be folded down on inside for a neat look. Stich lace to bodice.
Then I attached my ribbon to go down centre fold covering the stitching on the lace. Again, leave a little at top and bottom to be tucked at back.
Step 3: (Sleeves)
Put your darts in the sleeves where required. Sew up the seams of the sleeves leaving room at the bottom for applying your trimming and a bit of room at the top for attaching it to the bodice.
Gathering is required for the top of sleeve so gather fabric and straight stich over to keep fabric gathered whilst making sure the top of the sleeve will still fit the bodice. Once you are happy pin sleeve to bodice right sides together & machine stitch. Add trimming to end of sleeve and close off once you have had your fitting.
Step 4: (Fitting)
Have a fitting to ensure bodice is fitting comfortably. When I was working on this pattern I needed to add two panels 4” wide either side at back and take in where necessary. We also added the same amount to collar piece and took in where necessary. Be sure if you need to take pieces in that you take the same amount either side to balance the measurements otherwise you could have one side bigger than the other which could lead to problems further in the project like the garment not fitting properly, fitting zip & skirt etc. Also, the fitting is important to make sure the sleeve length is correct. I needed to shorten the sleeves.
Step 5: (Collar)
Ensure you have tucked in your trimming for the bodice at the top so no raw edges are sticking out. Apply the interfacing as instructed. Machine stitch collar right sides together at top, leaving the bottom open so you can open the collar to the correct side. Pin collar to the top of bodice at neck line and machine stitch.
Step 6: (Skirt)
Connect sides and back. I left back seam open until I was fitting my zip. Gather the skirt as instructed and stitch to hold the gathered pieces. Attach skirt to bodice.
Step 7: (Zip)
Attach zip. I didn’t use a hook & eye I used the zip all the way from the top of the collar. If you also decide to do this ensure you fold down the fabric piece at top of zip to allow the zip to close off the top of the collar. Close off the back seam making sure there is no hole at base of zip.